Drives and speaks English

Transportation in China is multi-faceted and always a challenge.  Taxis aren’t particularly expensive, but you need to have the address of where you are going written in Chinese before attempting to get a taxi, or you need to have someone with you who speaks Chinese!  Usually, this means two taxis because when we’re at the orphanage in Fuling there are too many of us.  But, we have interpreters!  Otherwise, one must anticipate when a taxi ride will be needed and have a print out with the address, have the address on a smart phone, or get someone to write down the address in Chinese for you.  I’ve done all three.  Fortunately, some of the hotels have cards for visitors with their address and directions for the taxi driver.  When we landed in Beijing close to midnight and needed a taxi to get us to our hotel, fortunately, I also had the hotel’s telephone number because the taxi driver needed to call twice in order to locate the quaint hotel located among the hutong (ancient Chinese alleyways in the center of the city).

In Fuling, the taxis frequently run on propane, which means their trunks have been outfitted with an auxiliary propane tank.  In other words, they can’t hold much luggage.  Every taxi ride I’ve taken with luggage has meant the trunk lid was open. 

When I first came to China in 2011, it was a huge risk to ride in any vehicle, as seat belts weren’t required.  Most taxicabs didn’t even have a seat belt to put on, if you wanted to!  I drove with professional colleagues (i.e., medical doctors) who had nice cars with seat belts, but the insertion buckle was plugged with a decorative “device.”  No one wore a seat belt!  Fast-forward four years and now the law states that all people in the front row must buckle their seat belts.  Behind that, it’s optional!  At least, in most cases, now there are seat belts and I’ve been able to buckle mine.  Although, I do have to admit to a few unbuckled rides in the back seat because I couldn’t find the belt. 

My colleague, Nancy, and I flew to Nanjing last week to meet with faculty and administrators at Nanjing Technical College of Special Education (more on that later).  On our return flight to Chongqing, Nancy noted the person sitting next to her did not know how to buckle her seat belt.  Despite several announcements before landing, the moment the wheels touched the ground the clicking sound of every seat belt unlocking except Nancy’s and mine filled the cabin air.  What part of do not unbuckle your seat belt until we reach the gate and the captain has turned off the seat belt sign do they not get?  It’s China … (see previous post J)

We also take the bus in Chongqing to get from our hotel to the military hospital.  There are three busses we can catch a block from our hotel and three stops later we arrive at the entrance to the military hospital.  We know it will be 1 or 2 Yuan, depending on the bus.  The rule of using public transportation is always have your money ready.  The last thing I do before I leave the hotel room is put 2 Yuan in my outside pocket so I won’t have to get into my purse in a busy situation.  This is also a good policy when you need to buy subway tickets! 

Nancy and I were on the bus to the military hospital when before we’d gone two blocks, we were in the midst of a major traffic jam!  The bus ride usually takes 10 minutes, but this time we were in such a parking lot, the bus driver actually stepped outside and smoked a cigarette.  Passengers started getting off the bus when they realized they could walk to their destination faster than they were going to get there on the bus.  However, Nancy and I weren’t quite sure if we could navigate the route on foot, as we hadn’t paid that close of attention while riding.  Note to self:  you might have to walk at some point!  Pay attention.  Eventually, the bus made it to the stop before the military hospital.  At that point, the driver ordered all of us off and we set off on foot with full knowledge of where we were and how to get to our destination!  Whew!

That afternoon Nancy stayed in the room and I went back to the hospital by myself.  I got on and went to put the two (1) Yuan bills in the slot.  A gentleman started talking to me in Chinese and tried to grab my first Yuan.  I dropped it in anyway.  As I started to put the next one in, the driver started talking to me in Chinese as well.  I hesitated, realized they were trying to get me to do something, and allowed the man to take my Yuan. Everyone nodded – it was all okay.  They quieted down and sat down.  I guess he needed change, or had put in 3 Yuan by mistake.  Anyway, I was the redeemer and fortunately, speak “body language.”

I have now taken the subway in Chongqing, along with Beijing, Hong Kong, and Chengdu.  Each is a little different, but there’s a system of putting your card next to a reader, going through the turn style, riding the subway, and then putting the card in a slot as you exit.  The great thing about the subway is first, no traffic jams!  Subways run on schedule and you can plan to get somewhere consistently.  Now, that doesn’t mean the subways aren’t jammed packed – they are!  And, in Chongqing, my white hair hasn’t gotten me a seat.  They also have a map of the stations and announcements are made in Chinese and English.  That doesn’t mean I understand what they said in English, but it does give me a bit of help in determining where I am.

Sometimes, we end up hiring drivers.   While more expensive, this usually works well for a group and means we get a professional driver.  When sightseeing, this has been the way to go!  Sometimes, our hosts have a van and we move around that way.  Generally, though, the driver doesn’t speak English and we need to have things arranged ahead of time or have an interpreter with us. 

Several of our hosts at the military hospital and my colleague here at Chongqing Normal University have private cars.  They have been gracious enough to pick us up, take us places, and transfer us when needed.  We were talking with the head of pediatrics about the logistics of our visit, when she mentioned the problem is finding drivers who speak English.  There are staff who drive and staff who speak English, but only a few who both drive and speak English.  That said most haven’t been driving for a long period.  Driving in China is the most multi-sensory, multi-tasking phenomenon I’ve experienced. 

When I lived in Europe many years ago, I drove.  The traffic laws were pretty loose and I learned quickly that if it were a two-lane road with enough room for three cars, then three cars it was!  But not Italy, not Greece, not driving or riding my bike on the left side of the road in the British Isles prepared me for China.  First, your horn is as much a driving tool as the rear view mirror and side view mirrors.  And, believe me you NEED those mirrors!  Taxi drivers, professional drivers, truckers, and most drivers honk their horn when they pass, when someone gets too close, when a pedestrian looks like they might walk in front of/near the vehicle.  You name it; it’s a good thing to honk.  As such, the traffic is cacophony of horns!  The noise is unbelievable.  Second, the arrows on the street are just suggestions.  If you want to turn left, as long as you have a left turn arrow and the straight-ahead traffic is stopped, you can turn left from any lane.  Same goes for right hand turns or u-turns, for that matter.  Actually, the lanes are just suggestions.  Drivers must constantly be aware of traffic behind, in front of, and to either side.  Then, there are the scooters, motorcycles, and bikes. 

So, despite the fact that the driver might speak English, I don’t chat with them.  I figure he or she already has enough multi-tasking to do; they don’t need to try to come up with words in a second language.  Once we arrive at our destination, we can talk -- which, is nice.

One other observation – if you’re a new or cautious driver and drive slow, no one honks at you!  They just go around you.  For the inexperienced driver, I think this is good.  He or she is processing so much, that to do it a high rate of speed would probably be suicide and the other drivers seem to simply adapt.

Last, I do love their traffic signals.  Not only do you get a green or red light, but you get the number of seconds the light will be green or red.  Yellow is really just a brief transition from green to red and never lasts more than 3 seconds.  The same is usually true of pedestrian signals.  Most will tell you how many seconds you have to wait before you can cross the street along with the number of seconds you have to get across the street.  Great information!  My "chinese" street-crossing skills are fodder for another post.